Manage Settings another option is to re-flash the firmware to marlin and add a 10A power supply. 6: Heated Bed ~ 40W = 12v 3.333A, As you can see we have a serious problem here =P. Get the correct part types and it matters precisely zilch, where those parts are made. Took the resistances on the old and new hot end thermistors and couldn't get reading from either. A normal metal heat break will be very thin stainless steel, but you can also get some made of titanium or even some that use two different metals. Our team has interviewed the most innovative 3D printing experts, tested and reviewed more than 20 of the most popular 3D printers and 3D scanners to give our honest recommendations, and written more than 500 3D printing guides over the last 5 years. =P. flowrate is a bit higher. Then it travels through a little tube called a heat break or a throat. If you do use PTFE lined print heads, also check and make sure your printing area is well ventilated. PurpleHullPeas GT2 conversion* for beefier belts (the Badass version is an alternative to this). Every single E3D V6 Ive purchased over the years is still going strong, chief among them my V6 Gold. If I had to recommend which set to go with, its this one: PurpleHullPeas Carriers for IGUS bearings: Skip the GT2 conversion, just use these for the bearings themselves. PurpleHullPeas goes into detail in his GT2 conversion guide linked above, so make sure to read it. but i mean, i had to patch the kernel just to install linux in 1994 and i am definitely not into linux for kernel hacking! My only upgrades are bed springs, BL Touch, Capricorn tube, and a PEI bed. PurpleHullPeas - the developer of this mod, as well as a major contributor to the MPMD community: The GT2 belt mod is definitely in experimental territory, because I can think of maybe two users who have mentioned they have done something similar (one of them being the guy who designed the very nice trucks). As for the extruder, the above article shows what can happen. Clean your hotend each time that you need to change the type of material to avoid clogs. For us, its the best hot end for Ender 3 despite being priced higher than more popular options. rchadwick7 liked A Self-Driving Car using a Raspberry Pi Zero. If you want to see just how well it works, take a look at this post of mine on Reddit. Thermistor Type Change. (Comment Policy). Also of note is the bespoke lightweight aluminum heatsink and fan setup. this will compensate for the low duty cycle by making the heat bed heat up faster because you can pump a higher voltage with more amps into the heat bed then it was designed for. Otherwise, the story becomes incredibly complicated, and calibration alone will take you a long time. The answer depends on the problem, whether thats clogging, jamming, or natural degradation with heavy use.Some issues may be irreversible and could involve replacing the Ender 3 hot end entirely to get the printer up and running again. It now gets up to 60c no problem and stays at 60c while printing. The far end of the heat break butts up against the nozzle inside the heat block which is a metal block that holds the heating element and the thermistor. ive printed 90+ functional objects and only 4 of them were for the printer. Fear not, however the community once again has a solution, in the form of a hot end adapter for the Monoprice Mini Delta. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Im also pretty impressed with the quality of the Voron project, given that its all hobbyist/volunteer-driven. The heatbreak is better and nozzle change is easier. Spend a little extra and get an E3D V6, or even their inexpensive Lite offering. Flashing firmware is really easy with the MPMD. That led to a mystery and, like many mystery stories, the culprit will turn out to be a minor player briefly glimpsed. You should see the LED flash a few times then the printer will reboot and display the firmware version on the screen. If you plan on printing ABS or other materials sensitive to ambient temperature fluctuations, an enclosure is a must-have upgrade. Titanium is much harder to machine, so you will almost certainly get a smooth bore on that one which might be more relevant. This version will work with all versions of the V2 and V3. thank you for your reply. Maybe its time to build my own. Florian Wilhelm Dirnberger liked Hackaday.io Project. You may not need the wire extension but doesn't hurt to have extra cables on hand. They dont seem to work with the factory carriages for everyone, so see the links I have above for after-market carriages that support IGUS bearings. Almost nothing in here is correct. Aluminum transfers heat well to other mediums, and has a higher surface area per SQ. Please be kind and respectful to help make the comments section excellent. Heater Block: What Goes Where. normally this would cause a fire but probably not in this case due to the low duty cycle. The parts listed correspond to things I either have already done to my printer - or plan to do - and may include free .stls from ThingiVerse, as well as their associated guides. odds are you will just burn the heated bed Mosfet if you try and drive the heated bed with a decent amount of power and a high duty cycle. ;-), There are two mistakes one can make along the road to truthnot going all the way, and not starting. (Prince Gautama Siddharta). Ive gained a lot of knowledge (and spare parts), but Im almost never able to just print something. This video should help explain the differences of the wire lengths. plus i use windows 10 and ST link drivers only work on windows 7.. so i had to ponterface from a vitrual box and that was a pain since the only was to use the marlin mod is over usb. Due to a larger footprint than the stock hot end, installation involves 3D printing an appropriately-sized fan cover or otherwise a gasket if you want a simpler option. More info: M561 - Change thermistor type & Thermistors, E3D-Online - Genuine E3D V6 All-Metal HotEnd, Amazon.com - Genuine E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal (Direct, 12v), Amazon.com - Genuine E3D Lite6 Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal (Direct) (12v), Printed Solid - E3D LITE6 BUDGET HOT END KIT. As the name implies, the hot end is all-metal. In line with the companys longstanding commitment to affordability, the Creality Spider High-Temperature Hot End is among the more affordable options out there, priced at $49. Its no slap in the face when its open source. Sites that run ads with code, tracking ads from advertisement companies or even automatically traded advertisements are blocked. 200C is well within the working temperatures of a number of filament materials (working temperatures of nylon are between 240C to 260C for example). That would definitely cause jamming. I got into 3D printing mainly to learn what its all about. Update, 10/4/19: Its been brought to my attention by both - Dennis as well as Dave - that his may seem like some sort of a guide; it isnt. The VESC project is kind of the counter-argument, as the author filed trademark on the OSS licensed project a few years into the production. The stock fan sounds like a fucking jet taking off, and I dream of being a pilot during night-time prints (and I crash whenever the prints fail, which is common with the MP Delta). Then with the SD card in the printer, power on the printer. Clones dont matter. Just for PLA, probably not. Much like the Creality Sprite, it allows an easy upgrade path to a direct drive system and, of course, a brand new premium hot end. E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit 1.75mm Universal (with Bowden add-on) Thank you a lot for all the effort you invested. Our team adopted the hybrid policy of 100% open-source, but kit hardware files were requested to be voluntarily left off the internet as the design evolved. It came with a little envelope of heat compound and I used it on the cool-end of the heat break. the monoprice firmware is just counterfeit marlin anyhow (probably) I found you can get pretty much anything you want done with starting and ending Gcode as long as you are creative. Yep, same problem here. RENN WAFFEN Remixed Raised Feet: This is what you use to mount a fat 120mm fan underneath. Juan-Antonio Sren E.P. I upgraded to a PEI sheet and my prints are sticking well. Amazing the progress that has been made. Not necessarily, e3D and Slice Engineering products arent manufactured in China and they are some of the most cloned products out there. 120MM Corsair Fan - Perfect for cooling the Underside (~$30). Amazon - MALYAN Hotend Assembly for Monoprice MP Select Mini V2 and Pro/V3, Malyan M200 V2, V3 NOTE: Only one option available which is with the wire extensions. NOTE: Only one option available which is with the wire extensions. Chuck shows you how to add a Bi-Metal High-Temperature Heat Break on Ender 3 V2. Cross boarder trade for small companies is a nuisance for low volume electronics, as only USPS seems economical. Maybe if the author of this article didnt buy a Chinese clone of the real product, assemble it incorrectly, use the wrong nozzle, and then blame the issue on the company that made the legit hotend, they wouldnt have had any of these issues. They work just as well for a fraction of the price. Habe bisher nur an der Temperatur Anpassungen gemacht. In your picture i noticed that you upgraded the bearings also. This is the same version as the Original Version - with wire extensions option at GigDigit linked above. Due to the V6s popularity, theres also no shortage of video tutorials to walk you through the process, including an official installation guide from Micro Swiss. and our Click to find the best Results for mpmd upgrade Models for your 3D Printer. Having a solid metal frame on the printer really turned it into a world-class printer. I HAVE a brass radiator and am looking at aluminum for exactly this reason. Firmware, Software, Drivers, Profiles, etc Hotend Assembly - MP Select Mini V2* and Pro/V3. E3Ds manufacturing is exceptional as expected, with a focus on details such as shielded bearing on the drive train and custom motor end caps to make installation as easy as possible. Either way, it does make it quieter. Do you recommend to do this update? its just so great to have the tool, to be able to use it, for it to be reliable. Florian Wilhelm Dirnberger liked Hackaday.io Project. That will cause lot of jams. Are those realistic? The Sprite features a 3.5:1 gear ratio, a high extrusion force, a tight filament path, and an all-metal design to provide more precise filament extrusion. 3D printers are now cheaper than ever and Monoprice is at the absolute forefront of that trend. I know it can be addictive to 3d print everything but time is money and odds are you would spend 3 days making a part and trying to get it just right when some lock tight thread sealant or thread sealant tape would do the exact same thing. This is the one that seems to have good reviews. Is Hackaday in some way sponsored by Monoprice, or a company trying to sell Monoprice printers? Download: free Website: Thingiverse. This incredible hotend is a must for any 3D printer upgrade. It was great! This upgrade can allow you Ender 3 to Print up to 260 C and higher. Steps per unit (mm) Thermistor Replacement - Heatbed. I can count the jams Ive had between them on one hand, and those were due to either filament tuning issues or extruder inconsistencies. I want to get things done, not to spend time on finding new ways of not getting things done. Applying my Harley-Davidson philosophy of, If it aint broke, fix it til it is, I ended up a year later with three printers more often than not none of them working. GigDigit has options with and without wire extensions. i cant actually relate to the opener. Hello, im currently dealing with a Firmwareuptdate to Marlin on my MPMD. TwinJT 56 min. I dont know if the generic white paste was old or just of poor quality. But Patrick correctly realized that I dont actually enjoy printing things that I need. The Dragonfly BMS is made chiefly of copper alloy for faster heating and improved heat dissipation over the stock Ender 3 hot end. GigDigit Belt Replacement Kit (~$27 after shipping) - might as well do the whole thing, unless you want to upgrade the belts to a GT2 style with some 16T pulleys, which is a different - and a much more complicated - story. Privacy Policy. And what do you mean the pulleys are glued in? In this case, we have the very same Creality Sprite extruder found on the latest Ender 3 S1, which Creality kindly offers as a standalone upgrade kit for the Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2. Though mixing metals and corrosion concerns should then pop up if the whole lot is Copper and its alloys throwing in the Aluminium is just asking for trouble of the galvanic kind. As the Micro Swiss All-Metal Hot End requires no modifications to the Ender 3 or additional mounts to install, its among the easiest to set up. Like the extrusions, theyve been in storage for a few years. That way you always have a spare in the event the first fix doesnt take. Ive been running mine for 5 months averaging about 8 hours use per day. Same. Marlin "Nightly" Source Marlin Patched Source Detailed release notes, Resources for reporting issues, and The tools needed to join the project. Copper transfers heat well within itself. The extruder on the A8 actually, the entire X assembly doesnt really change on the AM8 build. For example: I got a clone Titan extruder and could not get the extrusion rates (volume of filament per second) that should be possible for a Titan/E3D v6 combo. Additionally, the absence of a separate thermal tube inside the block means much speedier heat dissipation. While the circumstances under which youd want to push the Ender 3 that far are limited, the Creality Spider High-Temperature Hot End capably prints all types of filament, including the most demanding like Nylon, metal-filled, and PC. NOTE: Available for both type of the V2's hotend wiring. I am only using the ignus bearings due to maintenance issues. Second, if heat creeps up the heat break, it can melt early and this can cause jamming and underextrusion, as well. It can handle Ender 3 staples like PLA and ABS, and allows for printing TPU on the Ender 3 with good results along with: This makes it one of the most versatile options around. Except for one thing. So I took the 30 mm cooling fan off it was a cheap clone after all and replaced it with a 40 mm fan that should have had more flow. The MPMD hotened is not all-metal, or? It heats faster and is reportedly much safer as it is designed not to melt at even the most extreme temperatures. Maybe not. This adapter allows the fitting of the popular E3D V6 hot end, and is similar to modifications out there for other Monoprice printers. By using our website and services, you expressly agree to the placement of our performance, functionality and advertising cookies. The advertisement business is reaping what it sowed and its unfortunate that content makers are losing income over it. and *of course* i modified the Marlin firmware, and even fixed a bug in slic3r, and dreamed of reinventing openscad around a better CSG paradigm (no progress). V3 V4 - - , DUEX . I get the feeling from this Article you were looking in the wrong places to solve a simple problem. Possible drawbacks of switching to an all-metal hot end. These are not the only options available. I got a Prusa MK3S as way to make things, not as a hobby. Great work. Zero Offset E3Dv6 Clone Hot End Mount - by U.S. Water Rockets, published Sept 23, 2016. Monoprice Mini 3D Printer Bed Upgrade: Add a second slave heater to allow the bed to reach 110C - by Dave White, published Aug 19, 2016. . Same methods for tuning simply wont work. DISCLAIMER 2: Your warranty will most likely be voided, so proceed with caution. This is the same version as the "Original Version - with wire extensions" option at GigDigit linked above. 1: Hotend ~ 40W = 12v 3.333A For total clogs, use a nozzle cleaning needle or a 2mm Allen key to push the clog through the hotend. the best solution in my opinion is to solder this https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-ANET-A8-MOSFET-Board-Upgrade-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-Power-Module-i3-Heatbed/223305637201?epid=15025814885&hash=item33fe0d9d51:g:7lUAAOSwXGRcKjUB to the heatbed and use a beefy external power supply around 19V but no more than 24V or the bed will cook. I just used some cheap Chinese lock tight to keep them in. How much longer should it go without a part failure/replacement to be considered working? It was to much of a pain to take that giant printer apart all the time just to replace one. Creality has removed the inner PTFE tubing and introduced a copper alloy heating block for faster heating, a stainless steel heat break, and a tight throat tube with a low roughness finish to help retraction and filament flow. Trumps political macroeconomic xenophobia is about to hurt around 24000 small US companies running in the USA and in Canada. 3D print with incredible detail, with flexible filament, or incredibly fast. 3: Extruder Stepper ~ 12v 1A If you would like to change your settings or withdraw consent at any time, the link to do so is in our privacy policy accessible from our home page.. Looking for a pandemic project, I decided it was time to take the plunge and the results were great. NuclearPhoenix has added a new log for All-In-One Gamma-Ray Spectrometer. While Ive made a few quality-of-life upgrades (camera and lights, RPi mount), I havent modded it much. Given that the OEM is obviously the same as the original (Malayan) you may want to check through the OEM. While established hot end brands like E3D and Micro Swiss warrant their popularity, their flagship products are arguably getting a little dated. The Badass Carriers linked above are complicated, and this one offers a very simple plug-and-play solution. are you having trouble getting your prints to stick? As far as upgrades go, a Sprite extruder will have the biggest positive impact on the Ender 3s performance. DISCLAIMER: It is your responsibility to check compatibility of all parts, and to ensure that all parts listed are correct for your application. I expect that shortening that feedback loop will make a big difference. "mpmd upgrade" 3D Models to Print - yeggi Your Search for "mpmd upgrade" - 1,920 printable 3D Models Just click on the icons, download the file (s) and print them on your 3D printer try: keycap random Advertising add to list Tags MPMD for Reference (work in progress) add to list MPMD upgraded spool holder add to list We had the same issue and had to mill down the heat block. I had made some very simple changes to the extruder, but it was mostly stock and that was a pain. I aready did a lot in calibrating the endstops and radius so i guess its fine like it is. Cookie Notice Really want to get my hands on one of these printers. Maybe multiextrusion? The E3D Revo Six is among the latest hot ends produced by E3D and is positioned as a direct upgrade for the E3D V6. What were you expecting when you screwed the heat-sink against the heater-block? And even when it was open it seems like they were shipping to the US only. Juan-Antonio Sren E.P. In the marlin gcode i could only find how to target a temperature and so on. Did a writeup of my experiences some time ago: I am printing this 550mm tall violin right now and it stuck just fine with no heated bed. The assembly is standard for low-cost printers, centered on a PTFE tube running through a heat sink capped by a heat break.A replacement Ender 3 hot end assembly from Creality should set you back no more than $30. Replace the hotend on your Raise3D 3D Pro2 with these hot ends. Starting & Ending G-code Script Locations, Cura 2.3 USB Printing Not Working (experimental). the printer comes with a 12V 5A power supply if we break our power use down then it looks like this, Power use: So that fancy racing aluminium one is actually very likely to work better, it is probably lighter too. you will also need at least a 10A power supply if you install marlin and override the duty cycle settings. https://burningbecks.wordpress.com/2019/09/06/hot-end-anatomy-and-disscetion/. A few years ago, I picked up an Anet A8 for a really low price. Ironically, the inventor of the PTFE based v6 in the article was pretty disappointed by some folks in the community and dropped his own work from the web (I agree producing identical clones to compete with hobbyists is pretty lame). Granted both are pretty good at radiating/sinking/transferring heat anyways. Like the Creality Spider, the Dragonfly BMS boasts a max temperature of 500C with material compatibility to match. With this plug-and-play kit, you can eliminate heat creep, prevent clogging, and reduce print time. Find the best hotend upgrade for your 3D printer from our wide selection of top brands like E3D, Slice Engineering, Micro-Swiss and more. It becomes more challenging to print at high . Once that worked, I redesigned the mount, put on a clone Titan extruder, and fed it with a Bowden tube. Except where otherwise noted, content on this site is licensed under the following license: NOTE: Available for both type of the V2's hotend wiring. Overall, 3D printing has long benefited from the efforts of. Ive yet to test it, as its in the mail, but I dont see how it can be complicated - its just a PSU. Basically there is a company reship.com that reships the item and you end up paying about 30% extra for the taxes and customs. It also required adequate heat transfer between the hot end components. Florian Wilhelm Dirnberger liked Digital Hourglass. There are two options to choose from on the product page. 120MM Corsair Fan - Perfect for cooling the Underside (~$30). My clone all metal hotend and clone titan extruder work flawlessly. Its a premium option at the cutting edge of consumer hot end technology that deserves far more attention. In addition, here are a few words from David Keeton - who is a major contributor to the community support of these printers: I intentionally left the belt mod out of the guide: First priority should always be the absolute mandatory upgrades listed in MPMD 101 (extruder fix, trash shields, taller feet, power button, better SD card, lubrication).After that, the upgrades mentioned in the standard roadmap path are best if you intend to fully calibrate your machine (bed clips and bed surface for sure, maybe others, like a better PSU, depending on your goals).There are also many other upgrades that can help improve the printer I'm certain areas, that you may or may not need/want, depending on your goals. Although a significant upgrade, the Sprite is relatively straightforward to install. $99.99 28 review (s) If you are reading Hackaday, you probably know how that is. Not bad, but not amazing. And mostly because of knock-off I stopped my 3D printing hobby for a few years. Seems like the fail of the week is this article. This video should help explain the differences of the wire lengths. Like the Spider, the heat break has a low roughness to improve flow and reduce retraction problems. If you've ever thought about moving from a traditional hot end to an all-metal hot end, you might want to hear me. Autotune may not work all that great so maybe the following about running autotune isn't going to work. Its almost like anyone can put anything at all on the internet, whether it makes any sense or not. If the air is moist, the carbonyl fluoride further reacts to give hydrogen fluoride (an acid) and carbon dioxide.. The Revo Six is currently priced at around $100 while you can pick up a V6 for about half the price. rchadwick7 liked A Self-Driving Car using a Raspberry Pi Zero. The hot end is also somewhat unique in that Creality says it can reach a maximum temperature of 500C. One must have faith in the folks who will support you, and outwit those who show up for the wrong reasons. The normal heat break has PTFE inside which keeps the filament on track even if it gets a little soft. For more information, please see our a really hot bed will help with this but its just a quick fix to a leveling problem. Ive since bought the voxelabs aquila for about $200 and its so much better than that original $1300 ultimaker. At some point I might upgrade the firmware, but I'm not in any particular hurry to do so . These should give you a good idea of what to look for. 4.1 Key Features: 5 E3D Upgrade: Volcano. And in the world of Cars when the radiator is fluid filled and that fluid is constantly cycling Aluminium is usually superior the heat conduction isnt important inside the radiator, the fluid is mostly doing that job. Price: $80-$90. As it stands, the E3D Revo Six hot end suits PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, and Nylon printing. The Micro Swiss All-Metal Hot End continues that tradition, all at a reasonably affordable $60 to $65, and full compatibility as an Ender 3 hot end upgrade. The duty, taxes, and fees all couriers charge is often still applied to products that are exempt under the law. The idea of only putting compound on the upper threads is that you deliberately want to stop heat transfer from the hot block to the heat break. my long detailed comment got flagged because i linked a heated bed module -.- so short version since i do not feel like re typing a few paragraphs is this. I printed a mount and got that working great. the MPMD duty cycle is firmware locked so you would have to re-flash it to marlin to gain that ability and you would lose a lot of functionality such as UI, Wifi, alot of SD support basically printing only over USB interface. I installed a heated bed module on my printer and it works great with a old laptop power supply but i have not used the heated bed in a while. The new thermal paste something called Ice Mountain #1 did the trick. 2. I dont understand the point of this blog post All the information is wrong and theres no conclusion. Remove the card. The nozzles threaded portion should prevent that by butting up to the end of the heat break, so the problem was actually in the nozzle selection which isnt an obvious part swap when making the conversion. The principle toxic ingredient given off by PTFE up to 450C (840F) is this dust, which partly reacts with atmospheric oxygen to give carbonyl fluoride, a chemical relative of phosgene. Monoprice Replacement Hot End Assembly for the MP Mini Delta 3D Printer (21666) Product # 33684 UPC # 889028088661 15 Reviews | 10 Questions, 14 Answers $37.99 Buy in monthly payments with Affirm on orders over $50. Learn more Nothing Fishy Here . The money you save up front by buying clones is spent time and again fixing issues that constantly crop up. I know HobbyKing carried it elsewhere in the world, although not at Monoprices pricing. Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality Ender 3 / Ender 5 Printers 0.4mm, Creality Official All Metal Spider Hotend Kit - For Ender 3 & More, Dragonfly Hotend BMS All Metal Dragon Hotend Up to 500, RapidChange Revo Six (REVO-SIX-175-24V-AS-FL), Creality 3D Creality Sprite Direct Drive Extruder Pro Kit All Metal Dual Gear Feeding Design, E3D RapidChange Revo Hemera (HEMERA-XS-175-12V-AS), Best 3D Printer Tables and Stands in 2023, Best Ender 5 Pro Upgrades in 2023 (Printable & Paid), Best Ender 3 Print Speed Settings (Max for V2 & S1), Micro Swiss All-Metal Hot End For Ender 3, E3D V6 All-Metal Hot End (Works Great with Ender 3). The public has a certain % of crazy people, a few % of them are potentially problematic, and these folks tend to ruin things for everybody. NuclearPhoenix has added a new log for All-In-One Gamma-Ray Spectrometer. You do know e3d didnt invent that hotend, theirs is a clone of the original open source J-Head. What I do enjoy is building, fixing and even more importantly improving the printers themselves. Autotune note Nows its just another tool that gets used when needed. MPMD e3dv6 Hotend Adapter Dual 40x10mm Blower fan. All that said I have found little actual need for a heated bed in general the same is true for for auto bed calibration. I am just wondering if I have to send a Gcode to change the thermistor setting in the printer? Step-Down Power Converters to feed a constant 5V and min 5A to your RasbPi: 5A Step-Down Regulator w/ MicroUSB output and 2.1mm Input (I use this one) ($9.99) 10A Step-Down Regulator ($9.99) Service: Capricorn Tubing for the Extruder (~$15) - easy to install, can take a sever beating, and never have to look back. Maybe if these companies didnt manufacture everything in China we wouldnt have so many cheap clones to begin with. The Phateus Dragonfly BMS is a much more recent entry into the pool of Ender 3 hot end upgrade options. The quality of the parts and the construction quality is nothing short of excellent throughout, which translates to superior printing performance for the Ender 3. a couple days ago, i had nylon webbing (straps) and i wanted to make a backpack-style friction buckle for it. I dont like people buying clones of products in niche industries. and ive switched out the power supply 3 different times to try to track down what turned out to be probably a ground transient problem between my laptop and my printer (solved by putting them on the same power strip).
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